Plugging balance holes

Posted by: BowlerBill

Plugging balance holes - 12/24/19 03:56 PM

It's been a long time since I posted here. I have several balls that were drilled with balance holes. I still like some of these balls and continue to use them even though some are 5 years old.

Due to the age, I don't want to spend 40 dollars to plug them and find the plug changed how the ball works.

Can I use 2 part epoxy to fill the balance hole myself instead of paying the pro shop to do it? Has anyone done this?

What about a cork filler with epoxy on top (epoxy 1 inch thick)?

Posted by: Mkirchie

Re: Plugging balance holes - 12/25/19 08:09 AM

Take this information at your own discretion as it depends on who you bowl against and if you bowl in tournaments where you equipment might be inspected with scrutiny. This is rule 8.4.b from the rule book.

"No foreign material may be placed on the outer surface or in the balance hole of the ball including but not limited to powder, rosin, marker or paint."

Cork or epoxy would be foreign and someone could call you out on it. Although I believe the rule refers to existing balance holes, I feel that the USBC would probably apply it to a plugged balance hole too. I am pretty sure the approved fillers are a 2 part product, however I might also be concerned about how the chemicals in epoxies not meant for bowling balls might affect the ball.

Posted by: 82Boat69

Re: Plugging balance holes - 12/25/19 09:08 AM

When I had my balance holes filled, it was only $15 per hole. For the price of 2 holes, you can buy your own filler materials and do the rest for free, plus your labor. I would avoid fillers that dry quickly. Paper cups, dams and stirring sticks are extra.
Posted by: Greenman

Re: Plugging balance holes - 12/28/19 06:51 PM

I used a 2 stage epoxy to plug my own balls, which saved money, considering I had the same leverage layout on all my balls. The product is made by east coast resin, called crystal clear. I bought it last year in anticipation of the rule change. I also bought some modeling clay to use as dams.

Posted by: BOSStull

Re: Plugging balance holes - 12/30/19 11:57 AM

For someone who has never plugged a ball the best option is to let your PSO do it. Mine charges $15 also and at least it will be done correctly. I still need to have mine done and will probably wait until it is closer to August 1 before Ihave it done.
Posted by: Fin09

Re: Plugging balance holes - 12/31/19 12:42 PM

Let a PSO do it right. Do you have the router and bit needed to cut the plug? Spend the money, support your local PSO, and be sure it's legal. Yes, the reaction will change a little, but not as much as you might think it will.
Posted by: 82Boat69

Re: Plugging balance holes - 12/31/19 02:41 PM

Where I bowl, we have a 40' THS. After filling all my balance holes, I couldn't get anything to finish and when I did get to the pocket, I left a lot of weak 10's.

I'd say, averages are off 5-10 pins a game across the board. I was surprised by the reaction(s) I'm getting without balance holes. It's like all my equipment breaks about the same, whereas before I had 3 different reactions in a 4 ball arsenal.

What I see is more washouts and too much angle into the pocket for most people to carry. I can throw between 325 and 400 RPM's and my ball still deflects because nothing wants to roll soon enough.

I'm just about ready to buy some new equipment because my old equipment with the balance holes plugged just don't finish strong enough.
Posted by: BowlerBill

Re: Plugging balance holes - 01/06/20 04:54 PM

I want to thank everyone for their comments. I have a lot of experience using epoxy resins (I used to own boats and I built a lot of stuff using west systems epoxy) I don't have the correct router bit, which I'm sure will be expensive.

I think I'll get my local pso to fill a ball or two and see if I lose ball reaction. I hope don't.
Posted by: djp1080

Re: Plugging balance holes - 01/06/20 10:55 PM

My guess is that your balls may break a little farther down the lane. That's what I observed...
Posted by: Dennis Michael

Re: Plugging balance holes - 01/22/20 11:38 AM

I have had 2 plugged, but I had the layout changed on each. Yes, I got more length, but, it was controllable. I redrilled both anyhow.

BTW, I had a session with Mo Panel. He witnesses my high rev rate at my slow speed. Just shook his head. Then, he advised a dual angle layout of 95 x 30 x 15.

This literally turned the internal weight on its side. And, this would not work on any two asymmetrical the internal weights would be individually different.

I had one drilled and replugged it again. This rendered a premium ball virtually useless.
Posted by: 82Boat69

Re: Plugging balance holes - 01/22/20 12:21 PM

I spent a couple of years experimenting with covers, cores, weights and dual angles. I also tried a few of Mo Pinel's recommendations for 'high-track' players.

Bottom line, the number of variables that exist between one bowler and another in speed/rev combinations due to hand position, backswing, lanes, oil patterns, etc., render most recommendations useless.

At best, some generalizations can be predicted, but if you're looking for help from a new bowling ball with a new dual angle combination, you're looking in the wrong place.

The best way to improve as a bowler is to improve technique. Second best is to improve your ability to recognize lane oil patterns and transitions. Finally, understand the 3 phases of ball reaction and learn to control the length of all 3 phases.

It doesn't matter what the name of your bowling ball is, it's core, it's surface, it's dual angles, yada yada yada. If you can't get that ball into a roll just before impact at a 4.5 degree angle near the 17 board at about 16 mph, the ball will deflect or dive and the result will be less than optimal.

All hits/carry can be explained. Deflection on impact is what everyone should attempt to control. People who can generated higher RPM's can open up the lanes more than those who can't. However, I would speculate that only 5%-10% of all bowlers exceed 400 rpms. So, learn to optimize your own game.

Ball surface and lane surface account for 90% of a ball's reaction. The rest, if optimized will account for the other 10%. If you have a ball rep willing to drill 10 new balls each time the oil pattern changes, you'll get dialed-in pretty quick. If you're an average person who can afford a couple of new balls a year, you're better off throwing balls you already own that get the job done.

The balance-hole rule is forcing us all to plug and re-drill balls we've depended on. I don't trust the incestuous relationship between USBC and ball manufacturers. I also don't trust all the talking heads, famous or not who also represent ball manufacturers.

It would be interesting to see what would happen if everyone simply boycotted ball manufactures for 1 year. Would averages drop-off suddenly? I doubt it. The only thing that would drop off is the price of the next lastest and great bowling ball name :-)
Posted by: djp1080

Re: Plugging balance holes - 01/23/20 05:21 PM

That's a darn shame Dennis.
I've paid attention to Mo's Monday videos on YouTube and found them pretty interesting. Recently he's had stuff on changing the layout for help on modifying the ball track. Unfortunately I have a lower track. So his videos on tracks was interesting to me...
Posted by: BOSStull

Re: Plugging balance holes - 01/26/20 09:46 AM

From what I heard the overall DIFF will decrease by up to .020 depending on where and size of the balance hole. In symmetrical balls the Mass bias will be in the thumb hole causing the ball to rev up later than before. I have a couple of Hy-roads that will need to be plugged and suspect that I will have to adjust the surface to get a desired reaction. Also when I plug mine will drill a deeper thumb to help offset some of the loss of DIFF,

Dennis not good when Mo shakes his head.
Posted by: Dennis Michael

Re: Plugging balance holes - 01/29/20 01:20 AM

Originally Posted By: BOSStull

Dennis not good when Mo shakes his head.

Mo saw my ball hooking 17 boards, mostly because of my slower speed. And, realized I couldn't get the ball downline far enough before the hook. Hence, his flat layout. It was easier to just purchase a low end Brunswick ball and rev it up. Which I have done with a plastic ball on really dry lane conditions.