Just found this forum - looks great so far! On to the questions.

Just got back into bowling after a 30 year hiatus - been at it pretty regularly for the last 4 months - joined my first league. Took some lessons, got to know the owner of the Pro Shop. After watching me roll, he suggested the Ebonite Magic. My avg is around 150 but I've been know to roll some high 190's into the low 200's when the stars align!! So that's the background. (And wanting to buy new equipment is addictive!)

I am trying to understand the relationship of the major (in my mind) technical attributes of a given ball and how to translate that into a purchase decision. My understanding is that a higher Diff RG relates directly to flare potential. Higher Diff means higher potential flare. Flare (as I understand it) means more flare = more friction (each ball rev exposes new section of ball to oil instead of the same section??)which means more hitting power and - I would assume - better hooking?

Length determines how early the ball hooks and break point angle is how smooth the arc of the hook is (??)

All that being said - If you have a ball with a high diff rg and shorter length (Ebonite Evolve with Diff RG of .057 and a length of 24 out of 50) -vs- high diff rg with a longer length (Hammer Sting with a Diff RG of .057 and a length of 42 out of 60) - In laymans terms - how do you compare the balls? Do you try and match equipment to the way you play or do you try to match the way you play to the equipment? It would seem to me that a ball with a more potential hook and a shorter length would be less desirable than a ball with the same given potential hook and more length???

Sorry for the long post but this has been bugging me! TIA

tbowl1

When you look for a new ball you need to look at what type of hook you want. And when you want the ball to read the pattern. Balls that have a lot of flare potential usually start reading the pattern earlier and have more of an arc off the dry. Balls with less flare potential usually push farther down the lane and hook later and sharper/snappier off the dry.

Also look at coverstock grit. The lower the grit the more they are going to grip the lane and the earlier they are going to hook. The higher the grit and some come polished, the later they grip the lane.

Personally I like balls that are arcy off the dry and don't snap. My balls hook earlier and have a smoother reaction off the dry. My next new ball will be a ball that is snappy because, I have never had a ball that has pushed down lane and really snapped off the dry.

There are a couple of things to consider, one is what the oil pattern is you are playing on. Say you are a 200rev bowler with a 18mph ball speed. On a house shot you can probably get a ball with a medium-ish RG (ball with medium+ length) to make it back to the pocket. But put that same ball and same style bowler on a long and flat oil pattern, and you are probably going to overshoot the breakpoint. In this case you could go to a lower RG ball with a stronger surface that will try to turn over sooner and get you back into the pocket.

Another thing to consider is when you have some one with 200 revs that throws at 18mph compared to some one with 200 revs at 14mph. The bowler with a 14mph ball speed is going to need a weaker surface ball (higher RG) to get their ball down the lane, while the 18mph bowler will need a medium or lower RG ball to create a little more friction and turn over sooner. On the Flip side a bowler with 18mph ball speed and 400 revs is going to want a higher RG to help get the ball down the lane before all those revs kick in. Granted all of this is a bit generalized, I'm assuming a typical blocked house shot and ignoring things like playing different parts of the lane and swinging the ball versus playing up the boards.

So to determine what equipment is best for you you need to take into account your ball speed, rev rate, conditions you bowl on, where you play on the lane, and what you want the ball to do for you. In the end you will likely want a ball in each category, one with a lower RG for heavier oil, one with a medium-ish RG for average oil, and one with a higher RG for light oil. And throw in a plastic ball for good measure (for spare shooting).

Hey! Welcome to Bowling Community, T!

I like TenPin's answer too, but I think you'll probably be able to make use of it later after you have more experience. (regarding revs - a typical league bowler is 200-300, a pro 350-450).

Since you're a 150 bowler like me, I would suggest a ball that arcs all the way down the lane rather than one that skids on the oil and then flips in a sharp snapping hook at the break point. I have several of the former and two of the latter.

I have no idea about the type of ball, so can't respond to your question in that regard. However, an important consideration is the drilling, which can be done at least 2 ways -

1 - control, with flare so that the ball curves all the way down the lane with a mild hook at the back end
2 - length, sot that the ball goes more straight on the oil with more hook at the breakpoint.

I would suggest that you will want #1, especially if you always bowl on THS (typical house shot) oil conditions (what most leagues use) and not sport conditions (like PBA experience or Sport bowling).

I love my Danger Zone, with its skid-Flip, but it only gives me 1-2 strikes per game, while my Brunswick Monster with its long curve all the way down the lane consistently gives me 4-7 strikes.

BTW there's a thread on drilling patterns that might be of interest. I haven't read it yet....

One more point - Only drill one ball. Use it, and determine if the grip is right before you drill a second ball. There are recent threads on span and grip too....

There has been alot good info so far but I think for your situation it's too advanced. Go to a Pro Shop (talk to the local good bowlers, they will direct you to a good Pro Shop) and look into getting a benchmark ball. A benchmark ball is what you want to start off with, its a typical modern ball that works great on a typical house shot. Talk to the Pro Shop guy (even have him watch you throw a ball) and they should be able to help drill up a good starting ball. And ask alot of questions (and be ready for alot of answers.) Good proshops people are very knowledgable. And one great tip, if they don't measure your axis point or care about it, your at the wrong place.

For info on drilling bowling ball, check out this

http://www.bowlingfans.com/jeff/ballreactionbasics.html

good explanation about why proshops drill the holes where they do.

I agree with Handful.. you're getting to in depth into this for where you are right now. You have some of the general ideas down, but the biggest factor is how all of that matches up to you as the bowler. How you throw the ball, and how that changes as you continue to take lessons will determine which specs match up to you the best. It's also a lot of trial and error.

I'm not sure there's a formula that exists that will take a the way a bowler throws the ball and the volume of oil on the lane and then tell you the RG diff of the ball, the RG you want the ball drilled with, pin to PAP distance, placement of the pin, surface of the ball, placement of the mass bias, etc..

Figuring that out takes quite a bit of time.

Thanks for the reply - and I think I am looking for the ball you mention "a ball that arcs all the way down the lane rather than one that skids on the oil and then flips in a sharp snapping hook at the break point." Trouble is it's hard to tell from the "stats" on a ball - i.e. rg, diff rg, etc - which balls fit that category. I'm still in talks with the Pro Shop I visit but it's in a different town than where I live so it's hard to get over there...
tbowl1