Please help sustain BowlingCommunity.com by using the following links to Amazon.com before making purchases. It won't cost you anything more but we'll receive a small commission which will help defray our expenses. Thank you for your help!
#74690 - 01/06/0902:56 PMRe: Polishing a Raw Hammer Anger
[Re: VFF57]
sk8shorty01
Legend
Registered: 01/05/09
Posts: 2850
A/S/L: 25/M/Cocoa Beach, FL
I think it would probably be best to move in with that ball. The ball is probably burning up at 30 feet and is already transitioned from skid, Flip, to roll, and at that point is just a straight ball. Playing outside 7 on a standard house shot means that you are setting the ball down at about 10 (already outside of the oil pattern). When you are setting the ball in the dry, that means it is already starting to transition. I think you need to move in and play 11-12 and out to 7 and see what that does for you. I think that will help the ball to retain some energy and will give you more power and control in the backends. I think I would try that with your standard OOB finish and adjust from there. I think anything you change being out that far will create a very condition specific ball surface. Just an idea, and good luck!
_________________________
Current: Last Series- 749 High Game- 279 High Series- 815 THS AVG- 215.7
#74697 - 01/06/0905:44 PMRe: Polishing a Raw Hammer Anger
[Re: J_w73]
VFF57
Regional Pro Hopeful
Registered: 09/26/08
Posts: 506
A/S/L: 52/M/NJ
Originally Posted By: J_w73
what layout do you have on your anger.. also your pap??
The Anger was drilled pin above ring finger and at that time my PAP was not known. However, when I bought my Storm VG, I insisted that driller find my PAP. He based it on the Anger's oil ring since I had it with me which was 4-1/2", 0" (no-up/down).
With pin above ring finger the Anger should roll later. During league practice last night I threw it a couple of times since I refinished it back to OOB and it did seem to move pretty well. However, there wasn't enough oil on the lane to keep using the Anger or the Storm VG for that matter, so I ended up using the Psycho for most of the actual games. The Storm VG was getting jumpy at the backend and I knew from past experience and as posted earlier the Anger would have burned-up. My Psycho at 4000 - no polish loves a medium-light shot. In the future, if I get a shot with some decent oil I'll give the Anger a try again.
#74698 - 01/06/0905:54 PMRe: Polishing a Raw Hammer Anger
[Re: sk8shorty01]
VFF57
Regional Pro Hopeful
Registered: 09/26/08
Posts: 506
A/S/L: 52/M/NJ
Originally Posted By: sk8shorty01
I think it would probably be best to move in with that ball. The ball is probably burning up at 30 feet and is already transitioned from skid, flip, to roll, and at that point is just a straight ball. Playing outside 7 on a standard house shot means that you are setting the ball down at about 10 (already outside of the oil pattern). When you are setting the ball in the dry, that means it is already starting to transition. I think you need to move in and play 11-12 and out to 7 and see what that does for you. I think that will help the ball to retain some energy and will give you more power and control in the backends. I think I would try that with your standard OOB finish and adjust from there. I think anything you change being out that far will create a very condition specific ball surface. Just an idea, and good luck!
I'll have to try that line with the Anger next time I practice. I know too deep inside like 15 out to 8 the Anger didn't come back. Maybe moving out a little will help. That was part of my frustration with the Anger is if I played outside it burns-up and if I move in it didn't come back. Trying different lines is now a big part of my practice.
_________________________
_________________________ League: High Game 300 High Series 776 ------------------------- Storm Invasion OOB Storm VE 2000 Storm VG 2000 Psycho 4000 Raw Anger 2000 Cherry Vibe 4000 T-Zone Plastic/Spare Black Hammer Urethane
Try that inside line with a higher grit...On the spinner try a used 2000 abralon pad with alot of pressure to shine up the ANGER a bit... or a light hit of 4000 abralon.. I think you will like that over the polished anger.. Ball will get down the lane alot better and have plenty of power to finish on the backend.. and no squirtyness like with the polish...
#74716 - 01/06/0908:52 PMRe: Polishing a Raw Hammer Anger
[Re: J_w73]
sk8shorty01
Legend
Registered: 01/05/09
Posts: 2850
A/S/L: 25/M/Cocoa Beach, FL
The line you describe is probably a little to steep an angle for the ball to make the corner. I think if you are targeting 15, you probably want to get the ball out to about 10 and the ball will probably respond in a more desirable fasion. Try a few different lines and see what you can come up with, extra practice never hurts.
_________________________
Current: Last Series- 749 High Game- 279 High Series- 815 THS AVG- 215.7
I honestly don't understand why people are as hesitant to make surface adjustments as they are.
I can only answer for me, but my problem is that I'm not sure I should be blaming the ball. I recently took my Avalanche to 4000 abralon, but I had three months of over/under trouble with it first, and I'll probably need another three months at the current surface to give it a fair test. (Reading this thread, it sounds as though I should have gone in the other direction, to 1000.)
My Liberator (urethane), I started with box finish (1000) plus wax polish, and later switched to 4000 with no polish. The ball had about the same total movement both ways, but was a bit flippier with the wax...I had it redrilled later, and I'm still debating whether I should take it back to 1000+wax. At least this way it's low maintenance...
_________________________
Bounty, Original Black Pearl (800 w/polish), Copperhead, Avalanche Solid (2000), Sidewinder, Liberator (4000), Faball Red Pearlized Hammer
#74765 - 01/07/0909:21 AMRe: Polishing a Raw Hammer Anger
[Re: untutored]
cgeorg
Legend
Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 3384
A/S/L: Pittsburgh, Pa
If your Avalanche was in box condition before, the 4000 will give you about the same amount of hook, just with a bit more early and even read. The box finish or Rough Buff provides about the same amount of hook as 4000, just in a different way. For more length than box, use a glossy polish (like Brunswick High Gloss Factory Finish). For less, go to 2000 or 1000. If the box finish didn't work for you, I think you'd be better off at 2000 than 4000.
_________________________ CMGBB - Bowling tips BowlSK - Bowling score keeper and stats tracker My BowlSK
If your Avalanche was in box condition before, the 4000 will give you about the same amount of hook, just with a bit more early and even read. The box finish or Rough Buff provides about the same amount of hook as 4000, just in a different way. For more length than box, use a glossy polish (like Brunswick High Gloss Factory Finish). For less, go to 2000 or 1000. If the box finish didn't work for you, I think you'd be better off at 2000 than 4000.
OK, good to know--I was under the impression the box finish was 2000 solid. I seem to have a bit less total hook at 4000, but that might have something to do with the Clean & Dull I'd been using on it.
Anyway, my goal is better read--the ball has more than enough hook for me at box finish, even on dry--so I'll see what it looks like at 4000, then move to 2000 if I'm still having over/under trouble.
_________________________
Bounty, Original Black Pearl (800 w/polish), Copperhead, Avalanche Solid (2000), Sidewinder, Liberator (4000), Faball Red Pearlized Hammer