most balls can be either skid n Flip or arc it more by moving the pin lower to PAP. The BW line sells for $210 drilled here at either of the proshops I go to. None carry the older Ebonite stuff like the playmaker, they are trying to move the lastest NV line which is more like 230 drilled.

One of my friends/teammate has the Ebonite Complete NV and the lastest NVD and they fit my hand as well so I goof off with them sometimes. he has the C-NV goes long, would be about 5" from my pap and the other is 4" from PAP. The C-NV has more pin action then the NVD, the NVD needs ALOT of oil to carry power into the pocket. My Storm Dimenion is alos 4" from PAP and I can play the DIm and NVD back to back on the same line, but when the NVD flips on downlane, it weaker when it hits flush. Where as the Dim flips with alot of power and smashed the pocket. The NVD seems more picky when it hits the pocket.

His complete NV plays simular to my kintec but a lil less hook. Ball isn't picky at all unlike the NVD, it carrys ALOT of power into the pocket.

If I were to buy an Ebonite Ball today, it would be the Complete NV hands down. I feel my Dimension is better then the NVD for heavy oil.

How does the BW venom compare to the Complete NV, simular, goes deep, likes speed and loves added revs, but need revs for better pin action. But the Venom has an strong aggressive back end that I LOVE. My buddy hated the aggresive back end and I bought the Venom from him. New, the BW venom is $20-$25 cheaper then any of the Ebonite NV balls and has very simular performance. Use that $20 and get some ball cleaner.

Cal is talking about things like getting your ball baked, putting it in your dishwasher (not advisable it might kill the dishwasher), or submerging the ball in heated water. Each does the same thing that heat basically does to human skin. They open the pores in the coverstock and allow oil in the coverstock to flow out.

Jisigone, thanks for the info but I don't think I am wanting anything in the nv series anymore, I was talking about Ebonite "The one" bowling ball, it was an old one to but they just re-made it and came back out with it.

Demolition man, I thought that was what he was talking about by deep clean but wasn't sure, thanks!

Yup, that's what I mean. Deep cleaning and then sanding and/or polishing a ball can make it be like new again.

Do I have to sand it after every deep clean? or is that just something that needs to be done every once in a wile? And can polishing and sanding be done on my own? Also, is there a certain way it needs to be polished or sanded to make the ball like it was and not change it to a completely different thing? (sorry about all the questions)

Cals, talking about reapplying the surface to the ball whether it be polish or sanding the ball in order to get your ball reaction back to how you like it.

Really, I think it's really up to you. If you can do it great if not, go a little while and then have your Pro Shop resurface, rejuvenate and reapply the surface.

I don't know if I would be able to do it or not, but if I can, then where do I get the materials I need?

You can't get an even finish without a spinner, and you definitely can't get a good polish without one. Make friends with your Pro Shop operator and bring your own supplies, and they'll probably let you use their spinner.

Deep cleaning should only be done once your ball is starting to lose its reaction - it generally won't be necessary for at least 30 games. Less absorbent balls can go much longer than that, and some balls never really need it. The One series was pretty absorbent though, and you may need a deep cleaning every 40 or 50 games. When doing this, it's usually best to sand to a low grit to open the pores more, do the cleaning, then refinish to your target surface. If you want to be on the safe side, have your Pro Shop deep clean (rejuvenate) the ball when necessary. If you want to go out on a limb, you can use one of the methods listed.

I bake mine.

Alright thanks, I have been thinking about getting a ball spinner, but they are so expensive.

Justin:

Spinners are pricey. But, if you have someone who you can go buy it with, it becomes cheaper. Then, if you are going to stick with the sport for a while, it will pay for it in the amount of money you save from getting a ball resurfaced at a Pro Shop. When my buddy bought his, I think he paid $250 (this was 13 years ago or so). It cost $5 to get a ball done. Now, it is more like $25-$30. If you buy one and your friends want to use it, have them buy your supplies. Tell them: You buy me all of the stuff, and I will resurface your stuff every X games. drives your cost of owning it lower. One thing I will tell you, make sure you resurface in a contained area. Water gets everywhere. A cardboard box or a wash basin works well.