I read in BTM in June that it's not a good idea to ball up as you chase the oil line in. Is that right?

The reason I ask is that I bowled a six game tournament this weekend and completely botched the transitions. I started with my Break Solid and started seeing some over/under after 6 frames on the second pair. So, following the advice in this article I balled down and moved right. This worked for a while until the outside line dried up and I got totally lost. Moved way in and continued to see over/under for the rest of the tournament. Tried every ball in the arsenal and couldn't get a consistent reaction from further left.

So my question is when you make a ball change as you move left on a house block condition, are you balling up or down? Are you making parallel or incremental moves? I'm tempted to try starting at the bottom of my arsenal and working up as I move left this week for league, but wonder if this is a good idea or not. If it helps, I'd classify myself as being on fence between stroker and tweener. Thanks for the insight!

Chubbs, I will normally move right and ball up. Choosing to use the strength of the ball to cross carrydown. but, there are some rare times when I have to move inside. This is a problem for me because when I move left, I pull left as well.

My Coach has me balling down and coming straight up when I do this.

Stronger balls will tend to burn up as the lanes dry up and you have to move inside. I find it is best to switch to balls that store more energy as I move inside.

Then again, last week, my weaker stuff wasn't reading the lane, and I ended up crossing 4th arrow with my Cell at the end. While it is drilled to go pretty long, it is still a Cell, and at 1000 grit no less. It takes a long time to learn your equipment, learn how one ball reacts compared to the way another reacts, and then learn which adjustments (speed, axis rotation, finger pressure, targetting depth) you need to make to get lined back up.

The problem that I run into as I move left is that my ball struggles to tip and get back to the pocket. Last night was some better as I tried 3-2 moves in instead of 2-1 on the 40 ft house shot. Break Solid was leaving flat 10's in practice, so went to Break Pearl and shot a clean 673 despite approaches that offered no slide. Was able to stay with the Break Pearl all night too, which was nice.

When you need to move in because your ball is checking early, it's better to go to equipment with more angle. Possibly the same ball, but pearlized. The problem you'll run into moving left is hitting the carry down there from your previous shots. You need a ball that will drive through the carry down and still make a strong move to the pocket. Also, you need to get around the ball more. The ball's coverstock and core aren't the only things that will get it back to the pocket. Getting around the ball more will help the ball read the mid lane and tip on the back end.

Another strategy is if your ball is hooking early or going through the nose, don't move at all and just ball down. Something with less reaction or the same ball but polished or drilled weaker. Something that won't read the mid lane as much.

One thing I was taught was that you should start a set with your medium ball. Never your strongest ball or your weakest ball. That way you have room to move in one direction or the other. Because once you get lined up with a medium ball you have fudge room with it for a while, then you can go to weaker or stronger whichever gives you the best look.

Another tool to use is moving your target up and down the lane. That will buy you fudge room too (especially on top hat conditions). You can practice this by setting up in your comfort zone, your A game with your medium ball. Then move 2 and 2 right/outside, but target as far down the lane as you need to strike. Once you strike twice in a row, move 2 and 2 again, moving our target further down until you again strike twice in a row. Now you should have moved 4 boards nearly an arrow distance. You can keep going or move back left/inside in the same increments, bringing your target closer until you are back at your A game/comfort zone. Now move left/inside 2 and 2 bringing your target as close as you need to to double. Repeat. Repeat again if needed if you have done this 3 times you have only moved 6 boards, keep going. This exercise does not require multiple balls. Does not require the ability to change hand positions and does not require any speed changes. You can keep virtually everything the same, but get around on a wide area of the lane sucessfully. If you get this technique in our tool box of bowling, you will have a heads up on most people that have more hand, more equipment and more power.

Besides that, its a unique practice session.

Erin

Excellent post Erin. Moving a target farther sown the lane is a better way for me, but I incorporate a stronger ball change at the same time. I generally run into a lot of over/under at one lane, so that's when I try to stay outside of the carrydown and the stronger ball gathers momentum to carry from farther out.

Radical moves left often leave weak pocket hits, and mid game changes are not what you want to do. You can't afford to experiment for a few frames while you find the right combination.

Stay within your comfort zone and only move a few boards left or right, but target farther down lane really helps.