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#58816 - 06/09/08 03:28 PM Drilling new ball questions
Juyce Offline

Registered: 05/22/08
Posts: 24
A/S/L: 19/M/Springfield, VA
I really don't understand drilling and how it works, but I do know that drilling it different ways will have different reactions. A couple terms I'd like to finally figure out as well.. PAP, FLARE, PIN POSITION, TOP WEIGHT, and RG. I really have no clue what they all mean. That would probally help me understand alot more than I already know(which is nothing undecided).

I am getting a new ball, and was wondering if the Pro Shop I goto will just drill holes into it and just make it fit. Sure he can drill it and make it fit to my hand, but will the ball be at its maximum potential? I just don't wanna invest my money on a ball, have it drilled, and not work as well as it should. With my last 2 previous balls, I just got measured and then BAM the ball fits to my hand. My current ball I use now works quite well, but how will I be sure in the future.

Quite a noobie question yes, but I would like to know. If anybody could help me out here that'll be awesome. My new ball should be comming in this week and I wanna get it drilled ASAP.

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#58821 - 06/09/08 04:00 PM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: Juyce]
desertdog71 Offline
Pro of the Year Contender

Registered: 05/23/08
Posts: 793
A/S/L: 38/M/Independence, KS

Some very basics are as follows.

Pin above fingers=More length
Pin below fingers=earlier roll
Pin towards track=More backend snap
Pin towards grip center=less backend snap
Finger weight=More length
Thumb weight=earlier roll

Flare=When the ball hooks in the back end, does it roll over a fresh surface of the ball or not. More flare=more hook

PAP=Positive Axis Point. This is the center of motion when you release the ball.

RG has to do with how much weight is off center within the balls core. Higher RG=more weight towards the cover or outside of the ball, Lower RG=More center weighted.

Its really confusing and I certainly do not have all the answers on this. These are just basics. I would recommend a coach to help you select a drill pattern that would suit your style and needs. CoachJim is in VA, maybe he can help you out.

Edited by desertdog71 (06/09/08 04:01 PM)
Absorb what is useful, Discard what is not, Add what is uniquely your own.

#58823 - 06/09/08 04:09 PM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: Juyce]
CoachJim Offline
USBC Silver Coach

Registered: 09/19/06
Posts: 4665
A/S/L: Reston, Virginia USA
Here is a post I made about basic ball drilling info:

post back if you have any questions.

Most importantly is the fit, not the pattern. You wan the span to be right, you can tell if your span is correct by placing your thumb in the ball and laying your fingers across the holes. The leading edge (side closest to the thumb) of the finger hole should be no longer than half way between the first and second knuckle of the middle and ring finger without stretching your hand, it should be relaxed. If you already have a ball you can tell if your span is right by putting your hand in the ball and see if the finger nails are pressing the back of the holes, a properly fit ball will not have the fingers pressing into the back of the hole.

#58827 - 06/09/08 05:29 PM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: CoachJim]
Juyce Offline

Registered: 05/22/08
Posts: 24
A/S/L: 19/M/Springfield, VA
Those definitons made sense desertdog thanks. The Glossary defines those with even more complicated words. Haha I didn't know where to start.

The fit is definately important, I remember the guy at the Pro Shop doing that hand measuring technique; I read about that too somewhere. The ball I use now, my fingers do press against the back of the hole. My ring finger's nail is like peeling or growing over or something, in the middle of the left side of the nail..... I guess i'll just let him drill the way he does it. Seems like he knows what hes doing. I just don't want my ball hooking to early or hooking to late when that could be modified before it gets drilled. Theres only one shot at it right?

Another question, why would people buy used balls. What does replugging do to it?

#58828 - 06/09/08 07:58 PM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: Juyce]
Atochabsh Offline
USBC Bronze Coach

Registered: 02/13/01
Posts: 6567
A/S/L: 50/F/California
In addition to what Desertdog has aptly and quickly explained. If you have slower ball speed, you want the pin higher. If you have faster ball speed you'll want the pin a bit lower.

Consequently if you have slower ball speed, you probably will have to keep to Pearl cover stocks. And slower ball speeds, dull solid cover stocks.

Slow ball speed would be defined as more revs then speed. And high ball speed, more speed then revs. Then you have to match the ball to the "normal" condition in that house. Some houses are more oily then others.


#58859 - 06/10/08 02:48 AM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: Atochabsh]
Juyce Offline

Registered: 05/22/08
Posts: 24
A/S/L: 19/M/Springfield, VA
I think I bowl at a medium speed, and have medium rev(If you can say that). My current ball the PAP or Pin(The yellow dot?) is under the fingers to the right. The oil marks are on the opposite side. Should I get the same setup for my new ball? I think its a dull cover stock, Storm special agent.

Also upgraded from 12 lbs(Worst idea because I started with 13 lbs..) to 14 pounds. I know i'm ready for it. I am getting tired of my ball bouncing off when I need it to carry. But it is so beautiful when it carries through.

Oh yeah, In old used balls, what does replugged mean? Can it be drilled again to fit someone completely different?

#58862 - 06/10/08 03:09 AM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: Juyce]
Jay R. Offline

Registered: 05/03/08
Posts: 1300
A/S/L: 21/M/Tacoma, WA
Your PAP is different from the Pin. The Pin is that yellow dot you're referring to. Your PAP is coordinates(i.e 4 3/8 over 1/4 up) from the grip center on the positive side of the ball that help the driller determine how much the ball will flare(or, in a sense, hook).

A ball that is plugged no longer has any holes in it and can be drilled for anyone.

Edited by Amateur (06/10/08 03:10 AM)

#58885 - 06/10/08 08:28 AM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: Jay R.]
Calvin Pistorio Offline
State Champion Contender

Registered: 02/19/07
Posts: 6283
A/S/L: 32/m/maryland
To tackle the used ball question. Some people buy them because its cheaper than getting a brand new ball, or perhaps they want to step up to fingertip but don't want to test that with a new ball. There are more reasons.

Plugged balls are balls that the holes are filled back in and ready to be re-drilled. If someone gets one of these its better to try to keep a similar set up to whats on the ball. The plug material isn't quite the same density as what the ball is made of so it can slightly alter the reaction a person was looking for if you change the layout too much. Re-plugged could mean its been plugged twice possibly. I've recently picked up some used balls myself since I am changing weight, going from 14s to 16s. They only needed to be plugged to change the span for the proper span and pitches.
Calvin's Highs

#58915 - 06/10/08 11:35 AM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: Juyce]
CoachJim Offline
USBC Silver Coach

Registered: 09/19/06
Posts: 4665
A/S/L: Reston, Virginia USA
The ball I use now, my fingers do press against the back of the hole. My ring finger's nail is like peeling or growing over or something, in the middle of the left side of the nail..... I guess i'll just let him drill the way he does it.

If he plans on drilling your new ball the same as your old one, stop him, your span should not be so stretched out that your fingernails are being forced into the skin, that is crazy.

Please do yourself a favor and make sure the span is not stretched out like that, tell the ball driller you want a relaxed fingertip grip.

#58932 - 06/10/08 02:59 PM Re: Drilling new ball questions [Re: CoachJim]
KingBlueBadger Offline

Registered: 06/09/08
Posts: 29
A/S/L: 57mArkansas
Some thing needs corrected. The ball speed. You people haave said slow ball is defined as more revs than speed and vice versa for fast ball speed. The ball speed is rated in mph your better bowling centers have a speedometer on the score bard to help you determine your best strike speed. Fast ball speed is over 18 miles per hour and slower speeds are 17 mph and below. T ball speed is controlled by your approach speed and your arm swing power you put on the ball. your revs are controlled by your lift you put on your fingers at the time of release. i use a drill pattern set up to throw a very slow ball, 16 miles per houir and with few revs, you can actually see the ball pattern as my ball rolls down the lane. you can count the revs as it goes. This is for bowling The high Roller at Sams Town And The Orleans and Most of Our SASBA tours as the Oil Patterns frequently are bery heavy. In heavy oil the solw ball speed and few revs gives the ball more time to take hold and hook properly. As the floor conditions dry out. you just extend your arm more as you go along to let the vball get farther down the lane before coming in. A slow ball and few revs saves your arm and body as we are Senior All Stars, 50 years old and above (I was a few years ago). Our qualifiers are 12 games and an 8 game finals. The favorite pattern for not as athletic older people is a late set up with a super hard backend which leaves fewer 5 pins left as the late ball with a hard backengoes through the middle better. I still use a 16 lb. as I can throw it slower and the heavier ball at a slow speed gets so much more pin action. It carries those just a bit off shots. If you are 19, it wouldn't take you long to build that arm up and you will be spoilled with a good 16 lb. ball. Sorry to stick my big nose in but we can't help trying to help our younger bowlers out. Bowl good and have a fine day. Eddie
I bowl with SASBA Senior All Star Bowling Assoc. SW And SE. I also like to deepsea fish and I raise Reg. Quarter Horses and build Hand made Saddles.

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