Untutored, you are a no thumber and a full roller?
Yeah. At the time, it felt like a natural evolution, but it seems nobody else does it this way.
My shoulder opens fully when I pull the
ball back, and my arm's bent inward with the elbow locked so I'm directly behind the
ball at the end of the backswing. Halfway through the foreswing, my shoulder disengages so my arm can follow the
ball, and my wrist breaks so my hand remains fully (but now diagonally) behind the
ball. Then, the muscles re-engage and I follow through with a short uppercut, my fist finishing (slightly) in front of and next to my ear, with the first knuckle of the index finger at 4 o'clock.
I haven't had any joint pain in my arm for a long time--even when I overdo, all I get is a little muscle soreness. My legs are another story...
Anyway, it turns out I'm giving the
ball a full roll, but it's turning on a fairly wide axis when it comes out.
1. The trail leg should be used for guiding your upper body like a rudder, try to feel like the trail leg is an extension of the target line and it will keep your shoulders square to the target line.
If that's the point of the trail leg, I should go back to not having a kick--that's basically what that leg was doing before. I was expecting the leg would act as a counterbalance, allowing me to get my body a bit lower.
Since my shoulders are closed on the end-over-end shot, I'll try kicking to 6:00 or 6:15, see whether that helps.
2. End over end shot instead of working on that since you have a full roller track the ball is probably rolling mostly end over end as it is, try to work the inside of the ball with your fingers, meaning keep your elbow on the inside of the ball through the release, then snap your wrist and elbow straight through the target, you will probably move your track away from the full roller area if you do it properly.
I'll try it that way. (I've been trying to keep everything straight.)
I'm down to about 10 degrees axis tilt with a closed shoulder, but I'm still hoping to get to 0.
3. the liberator is made for playing straighter up the outside for normal bowlers, there is no limit to what a no thumb bowler can do with it, so watch the reaction and move left if it hooks too much and right if it doesn't hook enough.
I was hoping it would give me a consistent 3-5 boards over the Groove Urethane, but it's turned out to be more temperamental than that. Full speed down the outside, it's only giving me one extra board, but if I throw it slow enough, it will give me five extra boards across the middle.
Moving my target an extra board or two right (i.e. stand at 28, aim for 12 instead of 13) seems to help it stay in the pocket, on the house shot at least.
Anyway, my next
ball I'll try to get a composite surface with a pancake block, see how that works.
4. You are probably limited as far as playing the twig goes, that is why there aren't many no thumbers on the PBA tour, because most of the patterns are played to the right of the 3rd arrow and the no thumber's comfort area is from the third arrow to the inside.
My impression was that thumbless bowlers break down physically bowling 50
games in a week. That's what happened to Mike Miller, anyway.
(One advantage for a two-handed bowler like Belmonte is that his left arm and right leg are doing more of the work, so it's easier for him to stay healthy. Even so, Belmonte hasn't tried the PBA schedule yet.)
As for me, I can already bowl up the fifth board safely enough; I've never tried outside of there. I'm planning to turn my body inward like Jowdy recommends and not worry too much about the consequences, and just see how many gutters I throw going up 3 or 2.
5. As far as adjustments go, experiment with finger pressure and different pressure on different fingers. You will find that if you press harder on the ring finger your hand will not turn around the ball as much as putting pressure on the index finger. You will have to experiment and figure things out for yourself.
I'll try that, thanks.
Oh, and thanks for your time, coach.
