I use Jim system. He one who actually told me about it. Its off of Parker Bohn III system. I use middle arrow to aim at all my spares. Only spares i dont use spare ball would be five pin or one pin, which i hardly leave.

I use to use the 3-6-9 system, but i found a lot of inconsistency with my spares cause i was trying to hook to pick up my spares. That why i reverted to use the system jim uses. Though only time i miss spares its due to missing my mark or mental breakdown and me rushing the shot(which probally explain last week terrible spare % )

I played with my spares today. I've come to terms with the fact that 35/20 puts my ball in the gutter. 33/20 works well for the 10 pin, possibly because I drift a bit to the left and I move to 32/20 for the 6, and to 31/20 for the 3 or 9. For 7 I do 20/20 and move 2 boards left for the 4 pin, and two more for the 2 and 8. The left side is a bit shaky, maybe I can make adjustments here and there. I might have to do slight modifications for washouts and buckets. Any thoughts?

Dude, Try using the 3-6-9 method. What ball are you using? A spare ball? A reactive ball? I doesn't really matter unless it's a hyper aggressive ball on dry lanes. If that doesn't work it's a great springboard into finding a variation that works for you. The only thing I would suggest is to stand on the filler board to hit the ten pin.

3-6-9 hasn't worked for me. Three boards is often too much of a move for the next pin over. One or two boards has been enough, but sometimes certain spares might call for three.

Demo: 3 6 9 is for throwing a hook ball at spares, not a straight ball.

Am: moving one board per pin seems a bit small. That only translates to 2 boards at the pins. You have to be drifting for this to work, and drifting inconsistently at that. If it works for you, ok, but... I would re-evaluate, and make a concentrated effort to walk in the line your target.

When I shoot at my spares with my spare ball, I get the right area on the approach, then look for the pin. After that, I look back up the lane until I get to an arrow. I then shift my feet accordingly. If I am having an issue with the approach on one portion or another, I just move my feet and my mark. Not the most scientific way to do it but it works for me.

True enough. But even still, it is a good method to springboard off of. I developed my own style from it. Judt throwin it out there.

My spareing system is way different...

I stand 42 for my 10 pin ( I like to use the WHOLE lane), and then move 4 boards right for every pin up to 3 pin. So 38 for 6 pin, 34 for 3 pin, etc..

for left hand spares, I'll start on 25 for a 7 pin, and then move 3 boards left for every pin. On washouts and multi pins I adjust a tiny bit, but that's it. For the most part it works, when I'm throwing the ball decent.

You're probably right about my drifting. However, either I'm walking fairly straight or I drift left. In this scenario, wouldn't it make sense if I was drifting right to make up for the few boards I might be off? I will admit my ball usually rolls over 21-22 rather than 20 and that will make the 10 pin every time. At 2 boards right for my 3 pin it rolls over 20-21 and gets it a 4 on the clock consistently, which I like because that means I'm right on tracks for the spares involving the 6 and or 10.

Also, by walk in the line of my target do you mean walk towards my target line? I hear the former phrase a bit and I'm wondering if that's what it means or if it just matters that your feet, hips, and shoulders are square to the target line? I kind of find it hard to walk parallel to the boards while my feet are angled.

Yes, it means walk towards your target line, or more along the line of parallel to the target line, while being square to the target line.