I just recently figured out how to convert a dang 3 pin with my spare ball at a consistent rate. Any time I miss a spare on the right side especially if it's a single pin I've come to terms with the fact that I did something wrong in my approach, hence affecting my accuracy.

Left side spares are another story though. Part of me wants to play cross lane a little bit on these spares too, but the other part says I can't because then my follow through will be across my face which is probably too inconsistent. And even when I've tried shooting about head on with them I'm pretty bad.

So what are your methods? I'm considering, no matter where I stand, walking towards the pin because staying square to the line does seem to work.

You should always be square to your target at the line. There is no need for your follow through to go in front of your face if you set up for the shot properly. I shoot all mine between 3rd and 4th arrow. Left foot on 14 for 4 pins, 11 for 7 pins, 17 for 2 pins, 18 for washout.

With a free swing and a straight shot, you should be able to make a single pin spare from anywhere on the lane after 2 shots. If you can't, something is wrong.

I am a big advocate of throwing straight at all of your spares.

To learn to throw the ball straight, stand on the 7 board with your left foot (right handed), aim at the two board at the arrows and try to throw the ball straight up the gutter and pick off the 10 pin. This exercise will help teach you to stay behind the ball and throw a straight ball.

My spare system uses the middle arrow for all but a few spares. Start by lining up to pick the 10 pin out of the rack using a straight shot across the middle arrow, take note of where your feet are. Keep trying until you can pick the 10 pin out of a full rack of pins when ever you want. Like I said pay attention to where your feet are, as this is where all of your other spares are based on.

The pins line up with the arrows, 10 pin is on 5, 6 is on 10, 3 and 9 are on 15, the 1 and 5 are on 20, the 2 and 8 are on 25, the 4 is on 30 and the 7 is on 35.

There is a two at the pins to one at the arrows ratio, so if you move your feet one board to the right and aim at the same target, the ball will finish 2 to the left. Lets say you lined up to pick the 10 out of the rack and you were standing on 35 and going across 20 at the arrows, to hit the 9 pin you move your feet 5 boards to your right and stand on 30, the 8 pin you would stand on 25 and the 7 you would stand on 20. You will have to experiment as everyone's body is different, some move 6 boards between pins others move 7, I move 7 to start with from 37 for my 10 to 30 for my 9 then 25 for my 8 and 20 for my 7.

The 4,5,and 6 pins are half way between the 10 and 9, 9 and 8, 8 and 7.

The only thing I shoot different is washout splits (1,2,4, and 10) and buckets (2,4,5,and 8) I shoot them standing 33 and going straight up 25.

If you are having a problem with the left side spares it usually means your shoulders are not square to the 7 or what ever spare you are shooting. It also probably means you are walking and lining up straight with the boards instead of square to your target.

I guess hell is about to freeze over. CoachJim made a false statement. Don't think that has ever happened

The pins actually don't line up with the arrows. Only pin 1 and 5 do, the others are progressively more offset from the arrows. Pin 10 is 3" from the gutter, so it's actually approximately on board 3.

You are right, I can't for the life of me remember what board the pins are on, does anybody know?

According to Bowling U website:

1895 - American Bowling Congress organized at Beethoven Hall in New York City. Maximum score established at 300. Previously, it was 20 balls with a top score of 200. Distance between pins was set at 12 inches. The original organizers represented New York City, Brooklyn, N.Y. and Buffalo, N.Y. The following year Cincinnati, Boston and Lowell, Mass. were represented and letters of interest were received from Chicago, St. Louis, Wheeling, W. Va., Kansas City, Mo. and Quebec, Canada.

CoachJim, don't you remember this? Weren't you there? JK.

So I guess nobody knows, or more importantly cares what board the pins are on, it doesn't matter anyway, if you use my system you have to fine tune it by picking the 10 out of the rack and it doesn't matter what board it sits on you aim at the middle arrow anyway.

1 Pin - 20
2 Pin - between 14L-15L
3 Pin - between 14R-15R
4 Pin - 9L
5 Pin - 20
6 Pin - 9R
7 Pin - 3L
8 Pin - between 14L-15L
9 Pin - between 14R-15R
10 Pin - 3R

10 pin is around the 3 board. 6 pin would be on the 9 board. 3 & 9 pins would be somewhere around the 14 board. 1 & 5 pins are on the 20 board. 2 & 4 pins are somewhere between 25 & 26 board. 4 pin would be on the 31 board. The 7 pin would be around the 36 & 37 board.

This isn't exact, just from a drawing I made in AutoCAD. Though lanes are also 41-42 inches in width. It should be quite accurate, especially for a 42 inch wide lane.

My spare plan is just close my eyes and let the ball go, at least thats what it seems like at times.

I try to throw straight at all spares. I can do it with a reactive if I want to but have pulled my plastic back out to allow more room for error, plus at one house it works great as a strike ball especially toward the end of the night.

My right side spares I use the system Jim mentions. I aim over fourth arrow, normally standing somewhere around 37, I can't exactly remember but I do know where to stand when I step on the lanes. I move about 4 boards right for the 6 pin and around 4 more for the 3 and 9. The center pins, yes occasionally I leave just the head pin, I come on an angle crossing the arrows around the 7 board. Its the pins to the left that I have issues with and I've been trying to figure out a system that works. I am currently standing at about 7 going across the 13 board at the arrows for the 7 pin and then moving 4 boards left for the 4 pin and then about another 4 boards for the 2 or 8. The issue is either lining up wrong, or I just pull the ball.

I use Jim system. He one who actually told me about it. Its off of Parker Bohn III system. I use middle arrow to aim at all my spares. Only spares i dont use spare ball would be five pin or one pin, which i hardly leave.

I use to use the 3-6-9 system, but i found a lot of inconsistency with my spares cause i was trying to hook to pick up my spares. That why i reverted to use the system jim uses. Though only time i miss spares its due to missing my mark or mental breakdown and me rushing the shot(which probally explain last week terrible spare % )

I played with my spares today. I've come to terms with the fact that 35/20 puts my ball in the gutter. 33/20 works well for the 10 pin, possibly because I drift a bit to the left and I move to 32/20 for the 6, and to 31/20 for the 3 or 9. For 7 I do 20/20 and move 2 boards left for the 4 pin, and two more for the 2 and 8. The left side is a bit shaky, maybe I can make adjustments here and there. I might have to do slight modifications for washouts and buckets. Any thoughts?

Dude, Try using the 3-6-9 method. What ball are you using? A spare ball? A reactive ball? I doesn't really matter unless it's a hyper aggressive ball on dry lanes. If that doesn't work it's a great springboard into finding a variation that works for you. The only thing I would suggest is to stand on the filler board to hit the ten pin.

3-6-9 hasn't worked for me. Three boards is often too much of a move for the next pin over. One or two boards has been enough, but sometimes certain spares might call for three.

Demo: 3 6 9 is for throwing a hook ball at spares, not a straight ball.

Am: moving one board per pin seems a bit small. That only translates to 2 boards at the pins. You have to be drifting for this to work, and drifting inconsistently at that. If it works for you, ok, but... I would re-evaluate, and make a concentrated effort to walk in the line your target.

When I shoot at my spares with my spare ball, I get the right area on the approach, then look for the pin. After that, I look back up the lane until I get to an arrow. I then shift my feet accordingly. If I am having an issue with the approach on one portion or another, I just move my feet and my mark. Not the most scientific way to do it but it works for me.

True enough. But even still, it is a good method to springboard off of. I developed my own style from it. Judt throwin it out there.

My spareing system is way different...

I stand 42 for my 10 pin ( I like to use the WHOLE lane), and then move 4 boards right for every pin up to 3 pin. So 38 for 6 pin, 34 for 3 pin, etc..

for left hand spares, I'll start on 25 for a 7 pin, and then move 3 boards left for every pin. On washouts and multi pins I adjust a tiny bit, but that's it. For the most part it works, when I'm throwing the ball decent.

You're probably right about my drifting. However, either I'm walking fairly straight or I drift left. In this scenario, wouldn't it make sense if I was drifting right to make up for the few boards I might be off? I will admit my ball usually rolls over 21-22 rather than 20 and that will make the 10 pin every time. At 2 boards right for my 3 pin it rolls over 20-21 and gets it a 4 on the clock consistently, which I like because that means I'm right on tracks for the spares involving the 6 and or 10.

Also, by walk in the line of my target do you mean walk towards my target line? I hear the former phrase a bit and I'm wondering if that's what it means or if it just matters that your feet, hips, and shoulders are square to the target line? I kind of find it hard to walk parallel to the boards while my feet are angled.

Yes, it means walk towards your target line, or more along the line of parallel to the target line, while being square to the target line.

Here's something that I haven't heard before.

What on earth is the FILLER board????????????????

If you look down at the boards on the lane, there is board that is much narrower than the rest, the filler board. It is right along the gutter on the left, essentially the narrow 39 board. Stand on it and throw a straight or a hooking ball anywhere between the 15 and 20 board. It should hit. FYI, don't drop your shoulder, unless you are intentionally, trying to clean out the right gutter.