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#30189 - 01/24/06 02:34 AM dulled ball
ChrisLim Offline
Junior

Registered: 01/20/06
Posts: 23
A/S/L: 24/M/Singapore
Hi,
I'm quite new to bowling. I have a question about the ball.

I understand that a dulled ball can hook more. Does this dulled ball refer to one that is sanded? Or it means that I need not polish the ball in order let it become "dulled" naturally?

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Legend

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A/S/L: Mountain View, CA
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#30190 - 01/24/06 03:29 AM Re: dulled ball
lorok Offline
Team USA Contender

Registered: 05/19/05
Posts: 478
A/S/L: 30/male/albuquerque
the duller the ball, the coarser the surface generally. the coarser the surface, the lower the number referring to the grit it has been sanded with. for example: i have "the one" from ebonite which is sanded to 4000 grit and it is very glossy. i also have a "weapon of mass bias" from morich which is sanded to 500 grit and is very dull, or flat, in color.

as far as the hooking, it's not only the surface texture that matters. surface texture will create more read or friction on the lane, but it's the strength and position of the core that determines the ball movement. for another example: my morich ball is made to hook in heavy oil. the surface is much coarser which allows an earlier read on the lane. it is more of an arcing type reaction (although it does have some backend). my ebonite ball is a much smoother surface which allows it to travel further down the lane before it hooks with a more severe change in direction. i'd say between the two, each on their optimal lane conditions (heavy for the morich, med for the one) that the one outhooks the morich. but if i put the morich on some drier lanes, it would hook way too early and probably hook itself into the gutter. and if i played the one on a really heavy or long oil pattern, it wouldn't hook much at all.

you can also change the amount of hook potential for a ball with the drilling you put on it. both of my balls are drilled for maximum back-end reaction, as i want them to hook later to create better entry angle into the pocket. by changing the drilling i could make them be more forward rolling type of balls where the core picks up earlier, reading the lanes much sooner and having a smaller hook potential. but, drillings and understanding them is (at least now, to me) horribly complicated, so i'll just leave it at that. i understand how and why it works, sort of, but explaining it... fuggeddaboutit.

so, really it's all relative to maximizing the match-up of coverstock, core/core position and lane conditions. which is why alot of bowlers have alot of balls. bowling balls, that is.
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the time it took to write this signature would have been better spent bowling.

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#30191 - 01/24/06 05:00 AM Re: dulled ball
ChrisLim Offline
Junior

Registered: 01/20/06
Posts: 23
A/S/L: 24/M/Singapore
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I understand what you are talking about.

I've just bought the ball. Its a medium oil ball. It kind of go long and doesnt really grip to the lane well. The rolling was really late and it doesnt hook back enough. Guess the lane was too oily for it. I usually go in the early morning when the alley just opened. Therefore, the oil is quite heavy.

I was wondering whether I can do anything about it instead of getting another ball. I've bought 2 balls in 2 months. I feel I should just get used to a ball first, before getting more and more..

Did you sand the ball yourself? Is there any where I can learn to sand or its better to go to a Pro Shop to do it?

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#30192 - 01/24/06 06:18 AM Re: dulled ball
lorok Offline
Team USA Contender

Registered: 05/19/05
Posts: 478
A/S/L: 30/male/albuquerque
you should definatly try bringing the balls surface down. some folks sand/polish their own balls, i like my Pro Shop guy to do it for a couple reasons. 1. he has a spinner which can get the job done much faster, easier and more consitently than i could on my own. 2. the more time and money i spend in there with him the more he gives me discounts or cuts me breaks when i make a bigger purchase. i should learn how to properly sand my balls on my own in case i wind up in a money game some night when he's not around.
_________________________
the time it took to write this signature would have been better spent bowling.

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#30193 - 01/24/06 08:37 AM Re: dulled ball
Just call me Al Offline
High Roller

Registered: 08/11/05
Posts: 338
A/S/L: 63/M/ Long Island, NY - right ...
Try adjusting your line. move outside more and then check the balls reaction. All balls need a little dry area to hook on. It sounds like you could use a lesson in how to line up your shot. Check with the Pro Shop. It could be as little as moving your feet a few boards outside.

If you feel the need to dull up your ball, try something less drastic. Get yourself a 'dobby' pad. Its like a scotch brite scouring pad. Check at the Pro Shop. Rub it across your track area once. then check your reaction.
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Keep on bowling

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#30194 - 01/24/06 10:51 AM Re: dulled ball
Pin Bomber Offline
Action Bowler

Registered: 11/21/05
Posts: 273
A/S/L: 31/Male/Central Florida
This is an interesting topic for me since I go through a lot of ball surface changes depending on my league pattern.

Personally, I prefer to change my ball's surface (or even change balls) as a first choice of adjustment and then change my speed and/or line as my second adjustment.

I have a MoRich Shock and Awe, a WMB, and a Total Shock and Awe. The Total S & A and the WMB I use for the PBA shots and sport shots, and the Shock and Awe on most league patterns and practice.

The Total S & A I keep at 320 grit wet sand, the WMB at 600 grit wet sand-both of these are for heavier oil. That just leaves me with the Shock and Awe for everything else.

With just one ball for most of the practice and leagues, I find myself altering my Shock and Awe often. For regular practice I have the original Rough-Buff polish finish on the ball for the drier lanes. For my one league I have to sand it down to 1500 wet sand, and for the others I sand it down to 600 grit wet sand. Even though I have a WMB at 600 grit also, the layout of the ball is meant to read and break much earlier than my Shock and Awe at 600 grit and is too aggressive.

And, with having to make so many changes just within one week, I usually do the sanding at home, and occasionally take it into the Pro Shop. I don't have a spinner at home, but if you really take your time, it can come out nicely. And remember that sanding against your track will give you earlier break and sanding with your track will add length.

As others above mentioned, the surface finish isn't everything. In fact, you could have 4 of the exact same balls, put them all at the same polish or sanding level, but give them all a slightly different drilling layout and they all would still break a little differently even if you threw them all the exact same way.

At the MoRich website, they have a cool little chart under the 'resurfacing' section that shows you many of the possible surface conditions and how they compare to each other as to the type of reaction you will get and which is the most and which is the least aggressive.

One think to keep in mind is that unless you are on a league where you know the condition is similar from night to night, you will get all kinds of different reactions. When I practice at any house, some days the ball will really hook, and some days it won't. When you go in for practice, it is hard to know what kind of oil is down ahead of time...either fresh or leftover from the day before. But that is what helps the adjustment game! smile When I am going into a situation where I am familiar with the kind of oil down, I will adjust my ball surface accordingly ahead of time.

At one time I had one ball that I practiced with, and without changing the surface at all I found that at one house in practice it barely hooked at all, and at another house I could barely keep it from hooking off the lane. So unless you are on a league that keeps the shot the same from week to week, maybe try your ball at some other houses. If the ball always seems to go long, then you may want to have it dulled some more.

Finally, polished balls over time will usually get duller around the track as the polish gets worn off, and dull balls will get slicker as the oil builds up. Keeping any ball clean and well maintained is essential. Wiping a ball after each shot with a microfiber cloth also helps cut down on the oil soaking into the ball. I recommend cleaning the ball after any bowling before you even put it back in the bag.

Best of luck!
_________________________
I graduated at the top of my class from Randy's Bowling Clinic. Helicopter, Eagle, Airplane, Swan!

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#30195 - 01/25/06 01:07 AM Re: dulled ball
ChrisLim Offline
Junior

Registered: 01/20/06
Posts: 23
A/S/L: 24/M/Singapore
pin bomber

That's very useful information..

I just realised there's so much so much stuff to learn about bowling. Lanes, balls, techniques.. I used to think that techniques are the only thing to learn.

There are so much more factors to consider too. Even mental skills make such a big difference.
Bowling definitely has become more and more interesting for me!

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