This is an interesting topic for me since I go through a lot of ball surface changes depending on my league pattern.
Personally, I prefer to change my ball's surface (or even change balls) as a first choice of adjustment and then change my speed and/or line as my second adjustment.
I have a MoRich Shock and Awe, a WMB, and a Total Shock and Awe. The Total S & A and the WMB I use for the PBA shots and sport shots, and the Shock and Awe on most league patterns and practice.
The Total S & A I keep at 320 grit wet sand, the WMB at 600 grit wet sand-both of these are for heavier oil. That just leaves me with the Shock and Awe for everything else.
With just one ball for most of the practice and leagues, I find myself altering my Shock and Awe often. For regular practice I have the original Rough-Buff polish finish on the ball for the drier lanes. For my one league I have to sand it down to 1500 wet sand, and for the others I sand it down to 600 grit wet sand. Even though I have a WMB at 600 grit also, the layout of the ball is meant to read and break much earlier than my Shock and Awe at 600 grit and is too aggressive.
And, with having to make so many changes just within one week, I usually do the sanding at home, and occasionally take it into the Pro Shop
. I don't have a spinner at home, but if you really take your time, it can come out nicely. And remember that sanding against your track will give you earlier break and sanding with your track will add length.
As others above mentioned, the surface finish isn't everything. In fact, you could have 4 of the exact same balls, put them all at the same polish or sanding level, but give them all a slightly different drilling layout and they all would still break a little differently even if you threw them all the exact same way.
At the MoRich website, they have a cool little chart under the 'resurfacing' section that shows you many of the possible surface conditions and how they compare to each other as to the type of reaction you will get and which is the most and which is the least aggressive.
One think to keep in mind is that unless you are on a league where you know the condition is similar from night to night, you will get all kinds of different reactions. When I practice at any house, some days the ball will really hook, and some days it won't. When you go in for practice, it is hard to know what kind of oil is down ahead of time...either fresh or leftover from the day before. But that is what helps the adjustment game!
When I am going into a situation where I am familiar with the kind of oil down, I will adjust my ball surface accordingly ahead of time.
At one time I had one ball that I practiced with, and without changing the surface at all I found that at one house in practice it barely hooked at all, and at another house I could barely keep it from hooking off the lane. So unless you are on a league that keeps the shot the same from week to week, maybe try your ball at some other houses. If the ball always seems to go long, then you may want to have it dulled some more.
Finally, polished balls over time will usually get duller around the track as the polish gets worn off, and dull balls will get slicker as the oil builds up. Keeping any ball clean and well maintained is essential. Wiping a ball after each shot with a microfiber cloth also helps cut down on the oil soaking into the ball. I recommend cleaning the ball after any bowling before you even put it back in the bag.
Best of luck!