BowlingFans.com, The site for the fans, by the fans....
Sponsored Links




ChatBox:

Sponsored Links


Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#196329 - 01/05/17 05:12 PM How to deal with oil
RGR Offline
Bracket Donor

Registered: 06/11/16
Posts: 147
A/S/L: 62/m/Ontario
Lately I have been making good headway into my bowling improvement, but there is a but, lane conditions. I still throw with some speed, on the lower rev scale and mostly let the ball do the work. My favorite line is the outside where there is less oil, down the 5th board first arrow and have it come up at the end, works great when not to much oil. Lately it seems they are putting a little more oil, for my bowling ball does not seem to come up as good at the end and actually worse as the games go on due to carry down. My bowling ball is not oil soaked but I clean it after I am done bowling and I have tried different balls with same result. I have tried slowing it down but accuracy suffers. Oil is my enemy. There is very little forgiveness on these lanes. For my ball speed one board either way is not good and as an average bowler being that accurate is hard. I can throw between 15 and 17 mph, in my senior league it is considered kind of fast. Is there a bowling ball out there that really eats the oil or any other way to deal with this problem. My skidding ball into the pocket does not carry very good. Looking for clues.

Top
#10100 - 1 second ago Sponsored Links
Sponsored Links Online   content
Legend

Registered: Fri Aug 27 2004
Posts: 10100
A/S/L: Mountain View, CA
Top
#196330 - 01/05/17 05:29 PM Re: How to deal with oil [Re: RGR]
Mkirchie Offline
Hall of Famer Contender

Registered: 01/14/07
Posts: 868
A/S/L: 39/M/New Jersey
Originally Posted By: RGR
...and actually worse as the games go on due to carry down.

This has me sort of curious along with when you said you like to play up the 1st arrow. If you don't mind me asking, what type of equipment are you using? If they have fairly aggressive covers, I'm suspicious of something. On most THS shots, they're barely putting anything down outside of the river of oil. I'm wondering if your ball is transitioning through the phases of ball motion too quickly. Sometimes, people have mistaken this for a ball that is not hooking because they think there is too much oil.

Mark
_________________________
Current Average - 225
HG-300(12)
HS-799

Top
#196331 - 01/05/17 05:39 PM Re: How to deal with oil [Re: RGR]
82Boat69 Offline
Pro of the Year Contender

Registered: 06/24/16
Posts: 708
A/S/L: 71/M/California
Like everything else, there are many ways to deal with oil. A few questions first;

What ball are you using most often on this oil pattern?
Do you know how your ball is drilled?
Do you know your PAP?
Do you know the length of the oil pattern?

Here's where I'm going with this; Shooting outside is a 2 edged sword. You need to know where your ball is when it comes to the end of the oil pattern. From this information, you can determine how far your ball must recover to get to the 1-3 with anything left in its tank.

Early games might be wet/dry which will allow your ball to recover from your 5 board target. Later games, it might not be so easy. That's where knowing how your ball is drilled will help you know what you can/cannot do with it. Your ball only needs to stay outside for an extra split second to cause it to fail to recover or to recover too late. In one case, you may get a washout or the bucket. In the other, a weak 10 pin.

The rule of thumb that's most often used is to subtract 31 from the oil length and that tells you what board your ball needs to be on when it comes off the pattern. A 40' foot pattern needs you to be on the 9 board at 40'. A 35' pattern says you can still be on the 5 board at 35 feet and recover.

The shape of the pattern is also important. If its a x-mas tree pattern, you can play farther left and still find plenty of dry boards out to the right. If its a wide flat pattern, you'll need to play much straighter to have any success.

Anyway, answer my questions and we can go from there.

How's the weather up north? Aye! or do you guys say oh?

Top
#196334 - 01/06/17 12:07 PM Re: How to deal with oil [Re: 82Boat69]
RGR Offline
Bracket Donor

Registered: 06/11/16
Posts: 147
A/S/L: 62/m/Ontario
It's an AA thing and right now it is cold up here. If I sound frustrated it is not due to the reply posts, because the answers that I receive are very informative. It is just transforming the information to practical purposes here is very hard. Getting things done for the average bowler is hard. I had to ask for my pap. Buying a ball, they measure your hand drill your ball, you would think that they would like to see you throw a ball to suggest a drilling pattern to suit you. Elite bowlers not so much of a problem. So there are some answers I cannot give you. As for lane pattern, it is not posted, it's go out there and see what happens. I have seen so much oil that I have seen a person throw a very slow ball with very low revs go down the lane revolving very slowly watching and waiting for it to turn the corner and never does as it hits the pins, just revolving and skidding. That is probably one of our leagues biggest complaints, no backend, unless of coarse your a cranker. The two balls that I use the most are my hyper cell and haywire. They are dressed different for the classic league at night, but I do not bowl in that league. I will give more info if needed.

Top
#196337 - 01/06/17 03:01 PM Re: How to deal with oil [Re: RGR]
champ Offline
Virtual League Champion

Registered: 11/30/10
Posts: 2144
A/S/L: 32/M/AZ
RGR - Mark above posted some good information in that what you might actually be seeing is so much friction, it causes the ball to lose all of its hook potential before it even crosses the arrows. Then it enters your field of view, and while you're watching and waiting for it to change direction, it has no energy left.

So keep that in mind. It can be VERY hard to see the difference. And the reason we bring it up is because you are using very strong bowling balls in a part of the lane that is typically very dry. Unfortunately, it will take trial and error to determine which battle you're actually fighting.

Try this experiment:

Take your bowling balls to the Pro Shop and have them put more grit on your Hyper Cell and POLISH your Haywire.

Throw them both in practice. If the Hyper Cell suddenly comes to life, hooks more, and hits hard, you know you were indeed facing oil, and the both balls should have more surface than when they came out of the box.

On the other hand, if the Haywire is the ball that comes to life, then you know friction is actually your deceitful enemy, that both balls need less surface and even polish, and in the future, you should buy less aggressive balls.

Give it a try. I did the very same thing when I started out, based on the advice of a local hall of fame bowler, and discovered that the vast majority of bowling alleys require weaker bowling balls on the house shot (though not all...my current league is indeed on quite a bit of oil.)
_________________________
Nowadays, I open bowl practice and go to Nationals every year.

USBC Open personal bests: 226/602/1690
USBC Open career average: 174.66 (45 Games)

See you in Reno 2020!

Top
#196338 - 01/06/17 03:14 PM Re: How to deal with oil [Re: RGR]
82Boat69 Offline
Pro of the Year Contender

Registered: 06/24/16
Posts: 708
A/S/L: 71/M/California
If you know your PAP, put a piece of white tape on it. If you don't know your PAP, looking at your grip, fingers above thumb, put a piece of white tape 4.5 inches to the right from the center of your grip.

When you throw your ball, watch the tape. If the tape seems tilted up and rotated toward you as it goes down the lane, that's normal. If the tape moves rapidly to the side of the ball and all tilt and rotation are gone, that means the ball has rolled out.

Where the ball rolls out is what you are trying to discover. Too late means one thing and too early another.

Here' a video to help;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-EHBg3-wn4

Top
#196339 - 01/06/17 04:01 PM Re: How to deal with oil [Re: RGR]
djp1080 Offline
Team USA Contender

Registered: 04/20/13
Posts: 469
A/S/L: 72/m/IL
RGR, I came back to bowling after 30 years away about seven years ago. Bought a new ball and I found that I could hit the pocket pretty well by standing on board 15 and targeting board 5 (first arrow). Today I've moved quite a bit further left and have moved my target left as well.
The lane man at our bowling center answered my question about how they condition the lanes for leagues. It's a 41 foot pattern and somewhat of a Christmas tree.
As I watch many of the bowlers who do well they tend to have their ball roll a couple of boards right of the range finder marker (board 10) down at the 40 foot point. If their ball gets there, the ball will be close to it's breakpoint +/- and makes its move toward the pocket most every time.
The fellows here so far are pointing out that the balls you're using are pretty strong and they're likely burning up before they get down the lane. You probably should try moving your feet to the left a bit and see if you can target a bit more left as well. You might be surprised to see more action on your ball. I sure did, but I learned that keeping my hand behind and under the ball sure helped, too.
Hope this helps...

Top
#196341 - 01/06/17 05:50 PM Re: How to deal with oil [Re: 82Boat69]
RGR Offline
Bracket Donor

Registered: 06/11/16
Posts: 147
A/S/L: 62/m/Ontario
Actually I did ask my Pro Shop guy to give my hyper cell snow tire or roughen it up a bit and that is when I hit my high series so far, not a 6 but a couple pins from it the ball came in real good. I did not use it again because I believe the lanes dried up and it was just to much. I have been using my lx16 and haywire. But do you have to ask your Pro Shop guy for your pap, axis tilt,and all that. I'm the one that had to work on my finger pitches, a lot of plugging and redrilling till I got something workable, not to much help from him. But thanks for the video.

Top



Moderator:  Angel, Community Manager 
Savings That Support BowlingCommunity.com
We need your help!
Rather than begging for donations we're asking you to do one simple thing to help keep these forums running smooth:
When shopping for anything on Amazon.com or eBay please use these links to go to the web sites.

This won't cost you a cent!
You'll still get the exact same low prices, deals and free or low cost shipping; it doesn't change anything for you at all! The items do not have to be bowling related; all purchases made through these links help us! Amazon.com and eBay will pay us a small commission for every sale and it's helping us cover the expenses.

BowlingCommunity.com Recent Posts
Resurface is always a thrilling topic
by BOSStull - 10/04/19 06:17 PM
USBC General Playing Rule 18 Change
by BOSStull - 09/22/19 11:01 AM
USBC Rule 12
by BOSStull - 09/22/19 10:44 AM
Terms Of Use
Use of this community signifies your agreement to the Community Standards and Conditions of Use.

About BowlingFans.com | Contact Us | Advertise With Us | Site Map
Use of this website constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. | Material Connection Disclosure

Copyright © 1998 - 2019 - usrbingeek LLC | Copyright Policy
BowlingFans.com, BowlingFans, The Right Approach, Kegler's Connection, Tour411, BallBeat, BowlingCommunity.com, BowlSearch.com, and Bowling News You Can Use are trademarks of usrbingeek LLC. All other trademarks and tradenames are property of their respective owners.