Most pro shops either use PSA drilling or dual angle drilling. I'm going to explain in dual angle terms.
It's always best to have a person watch you bowl. But, I can suggest some things and explain why. If you don't know what your positive axis point is, have your local Pro Shop
locate it for you.
When you throw your ball, if it's a modern ball with a core, it will skid, hook and roll. During the first 2 phases, skid and hook, energy is scrubbed off your shot. Energy is whatever speed and revolutions you put on your ball as it leaves your hand.
If you're rev-challenged, then you're probably a stroker. Nothing that a Pro Shop
can drill will change you from a stroker to a tweener. A tweener is in-between a stroker and a cranker.
However, the Pro Shop
can choose a ball and a layout that won't scrub off anymore energy that it has to as your ball goes down the lane.
There's something called the 'Perfect Scale' that ranks bowling ball surface aggression. The scale runs between 0 and 300. A Storm 'Lock' would be about 232 and a Storm 'Tropical Breeze' would be about 125. A plastic ball would be 5. If you go to bowlingball.com it will show the perfect scales for most balls you can buy today. I would stay away from balls above 175. They will scrub of rev's too fast for you.
If you throw a 15 pound ball you might consider 14. You'll gain energy and not lose too many hits in the process. A ball I like is an Ebonite 'Cyclone'. You might keep it in mind.
Each modern ball also has some technical specs like RG, flare potential and differential. Modern balls also come with symmetric and asymmetric cores. Stay with symmetric cores. Asymmetric use energy faster. Go with an RG value above 2.50 and a differential lower than .08. These values can also be found on BB.com.
When a ball goes down the lane, friction causes it to slow down. As it slows down it hooks. As the ball hooks, it flares and the more flare the more energy is lost. High RG low diff balls will minimize flare. The moderate perfect scale value will reduce friction going down the lane.
After picking a ball that won't burn-up going down the lane, you'll want a layout that will take advantage of whatever energy you have left. Dual angles allow you to match up a layout with the skid, hook and roll phases. For example, a dual angle layout of
50 x 5 x 50 will create an arcing hook profile. It's easy to control but uses up energy earlier. For down and in play, you'll want a ball to skid further, hook more moderately and still have some energy left when the ball rolls into the pocket.
An Ebonite 'Cyclone' has a perfect scale of 167, an RG of 2.53 and a differential around .05. I think it would be a good choice. You'll want to drill it dual angle something like
60 x 4.5 x 40.
The 167 perfect scale will get the ball down the lane with minimum loss of energy. The 60 degree drilling angle will get you down 35-40 feet before the ball will want to hook. The 4.5 inch pin to PAP value will turn the ball left but will be gradual enough that you won't flare out. The 40 degree VAL angle will have a more arcing look than a snap.
I'm 68, a 3/4 roller, medium speed and average over 200. I'm a tweener. I can stand left and arc the ball if I need to, but would rather shoot more down and in. My arsenal contains a Storm 'Lock', a Global 900 'Black Ops', an Ebonite 'Cyclone' and a Columbia 'Blue Dot' circa 1978 for spares. The 'Cyclone' is my favorite. On drier lanes I have a 'Tropical Breeze' and a Motiv 'Apex' I use. I've been experimenting with dual angles for about 3 years and due to high Pro Shop
costs have started drilling my own equipment. I have 16 perfectos and have shot back to back 300's twice. Most recently at age 67. I've had back surgery and have metal plates holding my lower back together. Here's a video; https://vimeo.com/124909985.
It means I've figured out what works and what doesn't. I hope what I said helps.
Run everything I've said past your pro. Good luck!