Question first: How do I line up to hit the 4 and 7 pin with a plastic ball?

Background: I finally use a plastic ball to pick up the 10 pin, and I've found that going straight at it is so much easier than hooking at it. So it got me thinking, I should pick up the left side like that too, in order to take lane conditions out of the equation.

For 10 pins, I stand with my slide foot on 30 and I have 7 boards of distance between slide foot and ball release, so ball is released at 23 and thrown over 18, So the line from line-arrows-pin is 23-18-3. So I thought I could mirror that with the left side. 7 pin is on 37, so I need to target 22, and release on 17, which means my slide foot would be on 24. (Anyone confused yet??) Or the line to the 7 pin would be 17-22-37. Someone tell me if my logic is wrong.

Anyway, this seems like a really hard shot for me to pull off. Either I pull the ball trying to throw it to the left, or my natural
inside-out swing causes me to push the ball right, not to mention the fear of dumping it in the left ditch.

Summary question: Should I keep practicing this line, move right and cover more boards, or hook at the 7 pin.

If you're right handed, don't throw a plastic ball at left side spares. If you start feeding the information into the brain to get a plastic ball over that far, then you will start pulling your strike ball left.

Throw plastic for the 10, 6-10, and maybe 3-10. Shoot everything else with your regular ball.

Slide around 15, ball down approximatly on 8, target 10 and hook into the 7 or 4-7. Depending on the backends you will have to adjust from there. When you come off the oil at that angle, you'll hit dry boards that have been out of play, so the ball will take off left. You should be able to tell after the first attempt, what to adjust, then keep it there all night for that shot.

Coach, thanks for the reply. In truth, I had gone back to throwing my strike ball at the 4 and 7 for a couple of days now, and I'm glad to hear you say that is the correct way of shooting them. The only thing I have to remember is to throw my dull Obsession at them even when I'm throwing my skid/flip Core Power for a strike ball, since the roll on the obsession is much more predictable. Thanks again.

Coach, in general I think you are correct, except that I've found that on more demanding patterns (sport, PBA), that it is sometimes very unpredictable to use your strike ball for the 4 and 7, or 4-7, etc. Often the amount of oil in the middle coupled with carry down will make it difficult to get the ball across the lane and make the spare. For those times, it is still best to use a plastic ball. Whether you move left and throw straight down the lane or across lane, you want to take the lane and oil out of play. You can't do effectivly this with your strike ball.

Now it does take some practice to do this, just don't try it in a tournamentor league with practicing it. Whether you throw straight down the lane at the 4 or 7 or across lane, the best approach is to use a plastic ball and take the lane out of play.

As with all shots in bowling, there is always more than one way to do it. The most important thing is what makes you comfortable, and gives you confidence in the shot.

I play on sport oil and PBA oil, I still use my strike ball for all left side spares. I alter my release on differing conditions, to control the amount of hook, but I still hook those leaves.

The one condition that gives me a fit is the reverse block, or any extremely dry center. Then I have to really kill the shot in order not to over hook the ball.

I guess it is really what we get comfortable doing.

True, comfort is what it takes. In leagues, I'll use my strike ball for just about everthing except the 6,10, 6-10, and 3-6-10. On a sport shot tournaments and regionals, I'll use plastic for just about all my spares except double wood spares. As you said, the key is being comfortable.

Over the years I've found that learning how to throw a straight ball pays off big for single and double pin spares no matter where they lie (except double woods of course). When I throw a straight ball the lane conditions do not apply at all. That's what I like about it. The easiest shot in bowling is the straight shot when you have lots of practice. My spare ball for my straight shot is drilled differently than my other equipment. The thumb pitch is very important. My high performance balls have a thumb pitch that makes it easy to get out of the ball on the release. My spare ball on the other hand has a pitch that helps me to hold onto the ball a little longer, releasing the ball well in front of my body. This makes it easier to throw a straight ball. The best part about it is that once you find where to throw the ball for each single pin~ that mark will never change. No guessing whatsoever. I don't even think about it when I leave single or double pins standing, I know exactly where to stand subconsciously. Seven pin is 2 boards right of the center dot on the approach and over or one board right of the center arrow. Four pin is standing directly on the center dot on the approach and roll it over the center arrow or one board right of the center arrow making sure you walk straight. The angle makes it easiest. I've seen many bowlers that have trouble converting the 3-6-10, with a straight shot and the right angle you will never miss. I do cross my body a bit with pins standing on the left hand side but it gets easier with practice learning to get the ball out in front. I would recommend this to all players. I had to reteach myself how to throw the straight shot, don't get me wrong it won't be easy at first. But it will get easier in a short time and you won't ever have to second guess a one or two pin spare shot ever again.

If you throw a hook at your left hand spares take into account the 3-6-9 board move. To convert the 2 pin move -three- boards right on the approach from where you are standing for your stike shot and hit your strike mark. For the 4 pin move -six- boards right on the approach from where you are standing for your strike shot and hit your strike mark. For the 7 pin move -nine- boards right on the approach...roll over your strike mark. If you are playing your strike shot between the second and center arrow you will be able to use this effectively. If you play between the 1 board to between the first and second arrows this is too tight to work. In that case it is easier to locate a mark maybe around the second arrow for the 2 pin. Once you can locate where to consistently spare the 2 pin between the second and center arrows the 4 and 7 pin will be easier to hit. To convert the 4 pin move -three- boards right with your feet on the approach from where you were lined up for the 2 pin and roll your ball over the same mark to spare. For the 7 pin move -six- boards to the right on the approach from where you were standing for the 2 pin and roll over the same mark. This is a very consistent system and it works. This may vary though depending on how much you hook the ball and how dry the lane conditions are, and if the lanes are breaking down. This used to be my rule of thumb when I threw a hook ball at my left side spares. This system works for lefties also, just move left instead of right on the approach. I hope this helps.